Mixed Composting

Combined Compot composting is similar to trench composting except that it uses all the elements listed in the 8 Composting Methods; especially the Soldier Fly.
The pros and cons are intermingled because what might be a pro to one person is a con to someone else.  This method brings with it the same challenges depending on your ability to bend down but the system can be used above ground as well and will be discussed in another post.

It requires

• Digging a hole – only once for each pot, then no more holes to dig
• Planting your Pot
• Filling with ‘ALL’ your kitchen waste
• Locking on lid and covering with anything but dirt

• Dispose of all your kitchen waste including meat, dairy, citrus, eggs, onions, oil
• Dispose of anything bio-degradable
• Dispose of animal excrement – doggie doos etc. (not in your veggie garden)
• Decomposes super fast – with the help of the Black Soldier Fly
• Worms come. You do not need to add worms unless you have really  bad soil
• Worms don’t die. They look after themselves
• Worms, therefore, nourish your garden with no effort from you
• You don’t have to feed your worms if you go away on holidays.
• Nourishes all different parts of your garden with little to no work by planting a few around your garden.  Therefore…
• You do need more than one – or simply move some around the garden every now and then. But that to me requires digging more holes.  I prefer not to move mine.
• Empties by itself unless you intentionally want to harvest soil
• Works all year round – (varies with different climates)
• Can be used as a worm farm by filling with worm friendly waste only
• Takes only one month to 6 weeks max to produce composted soil (if you want to collect soil)
• Invisible in your garden
• Reversible lid allows you to mow over it
• Safe for young toddlers.  Lockable lid
• Takes the weight of a 50kg child running across
• The lid pushes in if an adult stands on it  – within reason
• Does not need a carbon/nitrogen ratio
• Does not have to be dry to work – the wetter the better
• Utilises your wastewater as well – without detergent
• Soaking your waste in wastewater makes it work faster
• Fermenting your waste keeps unwanted animals away like rats, bush turkeys, dogs
• You can have as many or as little as you like and use it in whatever manner you like
• It is small for a reason – because it is more efficient in this size, nourishing many different parts of your garden without the need to spread compost. The worms do the work for you
• You don’t need to wait for everything to decompose.  Just keep topping it up
• Liquid goes directly into the ground
• On the downside – it helps if you can bend down.  Otherwise, put the Compot inside raised garden beds.
• Seeds can grow from the composted material if you don’t ferment your waste
• Yes, you have to dig a hole.  But once you have dug that hole you never need to dig another hole unless you want to move it and make more work for yourself.  It’s your choice
• And nothing to do with composting but the Compot loves Soldier Fly Larvae.   Great for your chooks and fish also, if you have them.
• Plant one in your chock pen and let the chooks search for the larvae.  But don’t ferment your waste in your chook pen. They don’t like the smell.
• Propagate green food for you chooks on top of the Compot with the CompotTOP.
• Or propagate seeds for yourself in the upturned lid while composting below if you like to grow your own herbs and other things as well
• If there is one thing that it does not do and that is collecting the liquid to water your pot plants. But the liquid goes directly into the soil so this is, in fact, one less chore for me.
• And if you harvest the soil from them you can use this soil in your pot plants providing them with the nutrients that you would get from worm tea.
• Or you can soak the collected soil and make compost tea yourself if you have the time.
• It is small – this is so it decomposes quicker, is hidden in your garden and takes up no space
• You cannot fail at composting with this system
• The Compot is the most versatile way to compost but:

• You have to dig one hole per pot
• You have to bend down unless you have raised garden beds
• You can’t really use them for yard waste except for grass clipping and leaves on top to cover it which actually helps break down the grass clippings.

There are now a number of commercial direct composters on the market that you have no doubt seen and I know many of you have tried.

I have had lots of feedback of these products from people I talk to at the trade shows.

They do work the same way to a point, but not quite, and some of them go beneath the root zone of the plants, which means you have a big hole to dig, and the nutrients are lost below the 30 cm zone unless you have deep-rooted plants.

Others are not aerated the same way.

Others are hard to harvest the soil.

Others are bio-degradable so you have to keep buying them.

And almost all of them are visible in your garden and you can’t mow over them or propagate with them.
But in the end, it is your choice.

I just hope some of this information helps in making the right decision for you on a composter that is going to give you years of joy and a beautiful garden.

Aerobic Composting vs. Anaerobic Composting

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By composting waste materials on-site, businesses can significantly reduce the amount of waste that needs to be disposed of and thereby save money from avoided disposal costs. It may be difficult in order to figure out which type of composting process to go with. Here are some options.

Aerobic Composting

Aerobic composting uses oxygen and bacteria and replicates natural decomposition. The process of aerobic composting can be used with all types of organic waste and is also suitable for waste that is high in nitrogen. Plant matter such as grass clippings and leaves encourage a type of bacteria to grow that produces high temperatures, up to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Aerobic composting works quickly but requires a high amount of maintenance, as the moisture and temperature need to be monitored closely. Additionally, aerobic composting needs to be turned every few days to allow for proper air circulation. This composting process is best used outside and can be used with a large amount of materials.

Aerated Static Pile Composting:  Vermicomposting can be used for composting food waste. Vermicomposting uses redworms, bacteria, fungi, and other bugs to break down organic matter. Vermicomposting simulates a natural ecosystem where each micro-organism serves a purpose, whether it is to break down materials or produce food for the others. Vermicomposting also takes several weeks to complete and requires proper aeration and moisture conditions. Conditions need monitoring, and need a medium level of maintenance and care. This particular type of composting is best utilized in outdoors areas as the process can leave a smell and attract other creatures and bugs.

Invessel Composting: In-vessel Composting uses a process where organic waste is fed into a drum, silo, or concrete-lined trench, where the temperature, moisture, and aeration are closely controlled. In-vessel composting typically has a mechanism to turn or agitate the material for proper aeration. In-vessel composters are efficient and compact in comparison other methods of composting. In-vessel composters can intake any type of organic waste and some, like the LFC, can fit in schools or restaurant kitchens. In-vessel composting can be used indoors and outdoors and is incredibly low maintenance due to its automation. Odor, leachate, and rodents aren’t an issue. In-vessel composters can convert organic material to compost in as little as 24 hours to as long as a few weeks.

LFC: The LFC uses a series of processes in which micro­organisms break down biodegradable material in the presence of oxygen. The environment of the LFC, with our proprietary mixture of microbes and enzymes, accelerates the digestion of most food products and bio-plastics within 24 hours. The output is grey water that is environmentally safe. You can discharge this down the drain or use it to enrich your landscape

Traditional Bio Digester:  Traditional bio-digesters use heat oxidation, an aerobic process that requires oxygen. Hi-tech bio-digesting is a relatively new process that has not been around for too long. Bio-digesters usually take 8-12 weeks to finish decomposing. Harmful pathogens are killed by the immense heat that is generated by bio-digesters. Most bio-digesters use hi-tech machinery that can only be used outdoors. These hi-tech bio-digesters use a one-step method and typically only intakes plant-based food waste.

Vermicomposting:  Vermicomposting can be used for composting food waste. Vermicomposting uses redworms, bacteria, fungi, and other bugs to break down organic matter. Vermicomposting simulates a natural ecosystem where each micro-organism serves a purpose, whether it is to break down materials or produce food for the others. Vermicomposting also takes several weeks to complete and requires proper aeration and moisture conditions. Conditions need monitoring, and need a medium level of maintenance and care. This particular type of composting is best utilized in outdoors areas as the process can leave a smell and attract other creatures and bugs.

Windrow Composting:  Windrow composting utilizes long piles of organic waste called “windrows” and is aerated by turning the pile periodically by either manual or mechanical means. By piling the compost up into “windrows” the process is able to generate sufficient heat and maintain temperatures, but not large enough to cut off all oxygen flow to the center of the compost. Windrow composting requires a high degree of maintenance but it can be utilized for mass composting. It can be used for high volume food-processing, local governments and communities. Windrow composting is best utilized outdoors and in a variety of climate conditions. Leachate is released from this process and needs to be collected and treated in order to prevent contamination of groundwater and surface-water. There are heavy odors and animal issues associated with this type of composting.

Anaerobic Composting:  

Anaerobic Composting

Anaerobic composting decomposes waste without oxygen. Anaerobic composting takes several years and typically happens in landfills. In Anaerobic composting, organic materials are piled up and break down naturally. This process does not need any type of maintenance and will not need to be turned. Anaerobic composting produces a large amount of methane and can be exceptionally pungent.

Bokashi Composting:  Bokashi composting is an anaerobiotic (no air) decaying process and has been utilized by farmers for centuries. Bokashi uses beneficial microbes, or living microscopic cellular organisms, while traditional composting uses heat and soil microbes to break down plant matter. The Bokashi method allows all types of food scraps to be composted, and not just the plant based food waste. Bokashi composting takes 4-6 weeks to break down matter and uses a fermentation process. The acidity kills harmful pathogens and it can be used inside and outside. It requires a two step process. First the food waste is fermented, and then the soil microbes finish the decomposition.

Process	Odor	Pests	Maintanence	Best Location	Input	Time Period
Aerated Static Pile	High	High	Moderate	Outdoors/Warehouse	Organic Waste	1-3 Months
Bio-Digesters	Moderate	Moderate	Moderate	Outdoors/Warehouse	Plant Based Waste	8-12 Weeks
Bokashi	High	Low	High	Any	Soft Organic Waste	4-6 Weeks
In-Vessel	Low	None	Low	Outdoors/Indoors	Organic Waste	24 Hours to 3 Months
LFC	None	None	Low	Commercial Kitchen	Organic Waste	24 Hours
Vermicomposting	Moderate	Moderate	Moderate	Outdoors	Soft Organic Waste	1-2 Months
Windrow	High	High	High	Outdoors	Organic Waste	6-9 Months