Flower Gardening

Orchids

Beautiful orchid plants on display

Some more orchid plants and orchid flowers

Orchidaceae (the orchid family) is the largest family of flowering plants with more than 25,000 species, with more and more new orchid plants are being discovered continually, though about 3,000 of the species are under taxonomic dispute. It is also the oldest type of flowering plant on earth and makes up about 6–11% of all seed plants. The largest genera of orchids are the Bulbophyllum with about 2,000 species, the Epidendrum with about 1,500 species, the Dendrobium with about 1,400 species and the Pleurothallis with about 1,000 species. The orchid family also includes the Vanilla orchid, and many cultivated orchids like the Cattleya orchid.

The popularity of orchid plants means that they are easily the most recognized types of plants in the world. People might not know exactly what type of orchid plant it is, but anyone will be able to tell that it is indeed an orchid when they see it. A large part of this popularity stems from the fact that the orchid flower is long-lasting and very elegant with a delicate exotic beauty. This makes orchid plants with their graceful appearance the perfect gift for many occasions.

In nature most orchid species grow in the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and South America. However, most orchid species will grow practically anywhere in the world, except for the Polar Regions and extremely arid desert areas. This makes growing orchids possible for most people, and the relative ease with which orchids can be cultivated has also contributed to its popularity.

Growing orchids is quite easy in almost any type of climate even though most people think of orchids as being tropical. The most popular orchid species are the Phalaenopsis orchid (or Moth orchid), Cymbidium orchids, and the Dendrobium orchid, while the Vanilla orchid (and its vanilla bean) is the most highly produced orchid species. Many types of orchids are epiphytes that grow anchored to trees. They lodge in the crotches of branches or encircle their roots around the limbs of trees and thus extract nutrients from patches of moss and detritus in crevices and absorbing moisture from the atmosphere. Some types of orchids are saprophytes in that they do not have their own chlorophyll with which to get energy from the sun to photosynthesize. Some of the most beautiful types of orchids are saprophytic and are extremely difficult to cultivate. Many are terrestrial as well as semi-terrestrial; and grow from ground level and have roots extending into the soil from underground rhizomes and tubers.

Many types of orchids have uniquely shaped blooms, but the orchid flower conforms to a basic, common pattern. The petals form two groups or whorls of three each, all the petals in the outer whorl are similar in shape and two of the petals in the inner whorl are generally similarly shaped to the outer whorl petals. They may just differ in size, and the lowest petal, the third of the inner whorl, usually called the lip, is quite differently shaped from all the other petals. There are more details on the orchid flower in Orchid Biological Structure.

Orchids in different epochs

To the ancient Greeks, orchids suggested virility, and after the rise in popularity of orchid plant collections in Victorian England, the meaning of orchids moved towards being symbolic of luxury. Orchids have also been believed to carry various healing and protective properties, allowing them to ward off disease. The Aztecs were said to drink a mixture of the Vanilla orchid and chocolate to give them power and strength, and the Chinesebelieve orchids can help cure lung illnesses and coughs. In the following pages the aim will be to shed some light on orchids, growing orchids and orchid care.

Different types of Orchids

The different orchid species are classified according to the climates in which they grow and thrive. This can be cool-climate orchids, intermediate-climate orchids, and warm climate orchids. The more popular individual orchid plants are arranged in these categories as follows:

COOL-CLIMATE ORCHIDS

Brassia orchids
Coelogyne orchids
Cymbidium orchids
Cypripedium orchids
Disa orchid
Diuris orchids
Epipactus orchids
Goodyera orchids
Ludisia orchids
Masdevallia orchids
Odontoglossum orchids
Pleione orchids
Pterostylis orchids
Spiranthes orchids
Zygopetalum orchids

INTERMEDIATE-CLIMATE ORCHIDS

Anguloa orchids

Brachypetalums orchids
Bulbophyllum orchids
Cirrhopetalum orchids
Cochlopetalum orchids
Dendrobium orchids
Lycaste orchids
Maudiae orchids
Miltonia orchids
Miltoniopsis orchids
Oncidium orchids
Parsvisepalum orchids

WARM-CLIMATE ORCHIDS

Aerangis orchids
Angraecum orchids
Ascocenda orchids
Calanthe orchids
Catasetum orchids
Cattleya orchids
Paphiopedilum orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids
Phragmipedium orchids
Vanda orchids
Vanilla orchids

Orchid Biological Structure

There are three distinguishable characteristics of orchids that set them apart from other flowers in the floral kingdom. These are the flowers, the reproductive parts (or column) and the roots.

The Orchid Flower

The orchid flower is bilaterally symmetrical. This means that every orchid flower can be divided on a vertical plane, and a vertical plane only, to produce two identical halves that are mirror images of each other. When taking into account factors such as size, texture, color and shape the flowers itself range from awesomely beautiful to quite bizarre. However, there is also a common thread – the orchid flower consists of three sepals and three petals that are arranged in a whorl and a reproductive column.

The sepals and petals form the outer and inner whorls of the orchid flower. Often the sepals can be mistaken for petals due to its color and texture and they are usually of equal size. In some orchid species the dorsal or upper sepal can be slightly larger and more prominent than the lateral or lower sepals. These lower sepals can sometimes also appear fused. The petals are more 'flamboyant' than the sepals. But this is not always the case because there are orchid species like the Masdevallia where the role of flamboyancy is reversed and the sepals are more spectacular than the petals. In the Masdevallia the one petal is located at the bottom of the flower and modified into a lip or labellum.

The orchid lip can vary in shape, form, and color. It can be resemble a trumpet; it can be fringed, curved, elongated or even pouch-like. Sometimes it can even be stripes, or speckled, or very bright or subdued in color. Often you will find that the lip of the orchid flower is the largest, most ornate feature on the plant. Some orchid species exhibit the total opposite.

The purpose of the lip is to act as a landing pad for insects that may be potential pollinators. The lip will lure the bee (or other insect) with its extravagant shape and coloring. Often in these cases the lip look like a single, or multi-lobed structure that is decorated with ridges, bumps or tufts of hair.

There are several orchid species that are fussy regarding the pollinating agent that they require for reproduction purposes. In the event of the orchid depending on flies, birds, gnats, moths, butterflies, or even humming birds, the lip is especially 'engineered' by the orchid to facilitate the pollinating agent and the pollination that is required from it. In Bulbophylums for instance the lip is a sensitive hinge that swings to propel the visiting pollination agent towards the pollen. In the Paphiopedilum orchid, or the lady slipper orchid, the lip is in the shape of a slipper-like pouch that will trap the pollinating agent until pollination is complete.

In the majority of the orchid species known at present day, the lip is located at the bottom of the orchid flower. When the flower is still in bud, the lip is located at the top and as the flower matures, the lip moves downward. This process is called resupination. Few orchid species are non-resupinate, like the Encyclia cochleata where the lip remains at the top of the flower and performs is pollinating duties in a different fashion. (It traps its pollinating agent underneath the hood.)

The Orchid Column

The orchid column or reproductive parts are quite unique. This is mainly due to the male and female organs being fused into a tubular, waxy structure at the center of the flower known as the column. With the conventional type of flower has separate male (the stamen with the pollen) and female reproductive organs (the pistil with the stigma). At the top of the column, the pollen grains form a golden yellow waxy mass called the pollinia. These pollinia are contained in the anther cap. The number of pollinia varies from orchid species to orchid species and represents the male reproductive organs.

Immediately at the back of the tip, on the underside of the column is the stigma which is quite sticky and thus adapted for pollination purposes. The stigma represents the female reproductive organs.

The Orchid Roots

First and foremost, the roots of plants usually serve two basic purposes: anchoring the plant and absorbing moisture and nutrients. Orchid roots also perform the same purposes, but with a distinct difference. The orchid root is generally thicker than those of a normal conventional plant and may even appear as individual strands. The roots have a fragile inner core that is protected by a thick spongy layer or grey, white protective tissue, the velamen. This velamen is essentially air-pockets of dead cells that provide the roots with that high absorbency. The outer layer of the roots is often covered with fine hair-like projections that resemble the roots of conventional plants.

The underground roots of terrestrial orchids usually perform the usual conventional root functions for the orchid. Aerial roots are usually on the epiphytic orchids. These plants usually grow on rocks and trees. Aerial roots are normally thick and strong with super absorption capabilities. The roots attach the orchid to either a host tree or rock and then the plant literally live on air. The aerial roots usually have green tips that contain chlorophyll (especially the leafless orchid species such as the Chilochistra parishii) that is required to absorb energy from the sun.

The Orchid Leaves

Orchid leaves are just as varied as the flowers. It can be broad, thin, succulent, cylindrical, tiny and even as huge as more than a meter, i.e. three feet in length. Most of the orchid leaves occur in shades of green, blue and grey. There is however, a group of orchids that have leaves that are shades of grey, green, red, brown, silver, bronze and even in copper tones – the so-called jewel orchids. Orchid leaves can grow in various ways: fan shape, at intervals ranging from a few to several centimeters in between. Whichever way it grows, it reflects the adaptations of the orchid to its environmental conditions. For example some Vanda orchid species grow in shaded areas and thus their leaves are broad, flat or pinnate for maximum exposure to sunlight. The other example that warrants mention here is the Brassavola species which grow naturally in tropical regions in harsh sunlight. Their leaves are fleshy and pencil shaped to as to expose the minimal surface area of the plant and retain moisture.

Classification of orchids

Hybrid Cymbidium Orchids

There are certain rules that apply when naming any type of plant, including orchid plants. Most plants are named using just a genus name and a species name as per the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature (ICBN), but in the case of orchids, there are more rules that have to be heeded since there can be so many hybrids of one particular orchid plant. Each and every orchid hybrid requires a hybrid name. This then results in orchids also being subject to the International Code of Nomenclature for Cultivated Plants (ICNCP).

When one describes an orchid plant, the species or genus name is followed by a unique name. This name is usually derived and given by the describing botanist. Botanical classification is done in a hierarchical fashion. This means that each higher rank, such as an order or family includes a number of subordinate groups that most probably share certain characteristics. In general orchid classification is a means whereby one can understand the many species better and put them into context. For example there is an artificial classification that divides orchids into groups and can help a cultivator to identify unfamiliar plants as well as provide clues on how to care and grow certain plants. Artificial classifications include group nomenclature such as terrestrial, epiphyte, cool- or warm growing, etc.

Climate conditions

All orchids are classified as per their preferred climatic conditions in which the can grow and thrive. There are basically three different types of climatic conditions that are used to classify orchids. They are the cool-climate orchids, the intermediate climate orchids and the warm climate orchids.

The cool climate orchids

Temperate climates, cool-growing orchids, at high elevations to facilitate the cooling of the orchid by cloud cover – Cool-climate orchids grow naturally in areas from as far afield as China until Northern Australia. The orchid plant that comes to mind immediately is the Cymbidium orchids. Cymbidium orchids make up the largest of the potted orchid selections that can be found.

In the Andes the orchids are cooled by moist clouds in the late afternoon. The examples here include Odontoglossum and Masdevallia orchids. It has been found that Odontoglossum orchids hybridize easily with the Oncidium orchid which is a warmer-growing orchid.

In South Africa, especially on Table Mountain and in Madagascar the Disa orchid grows in the cool winds all year round with cold rain and occasional snow falls in winter. They experience high summer temperatures, but mountain streams keep the orchid plant roots cool and make the weather conditions tolerable.

The following examples are naturally cool-climate orchids: Cymbidium orchids, the Odontoglossum Alliance and the different types of Odontoglossum orchids, the Disa uniflora and its hybrids, the Pleione orchid, the Zygopetalum orchid and the Dendrobium orchid, the Masdevallia, Brassia and of course the Coelogyne orchids.

There are also Terrestrial orchids that also resort under the cool-climate orchids. They are the Cypripedium orchid, Oriental Cymbidium orchids, the Diuris and Pterostylis orchids, the so-called Jewel Orchid (Goodyera and Ludisia), and the Epipactus and Spiranthes orchids.

The intermediate climate orchids

The orchids classified as intermediate-climate orchids grow naturally in climates that are neither too hot nor too cold. They occur naturally between temperate and tropical zones. The optimum environment for these orchids has a temperature that is subtropical. In this group most of the orchids prefer bright, but not direct sunlight and will be most comfortable in a semi-shaded area. A covered patio is thus ideal. (Tip: create this environment using 40-50% shade cloth.)

Of the most notable examples of intermediate climate orchids are the: Oncidium orchids and their intergeneric hybrids, the warm-tolerant Cymbidium orchids, the ever-popular Miltonia orchid and the Miltoniopsis orchid, the different ladyslipper orchids or as they are also known, the Paphiopedilum orchids. Amongst the Paphiopedilumorchids, the Maudiae, the Cochlopetalum, the Multiflorals, the Brachypetalums, the green-leaf species and the Parsvisepalum orchids are the hybrids. Then there are also the Lycaste and Anguloa orchids. And last but not least, the Bulbophyllum and Cirrhopetalum orchids also form part of the intermediate climate orchids.

The warm climate orchids

These orchids occur naturally in the tropical areas. Warm climate orchids require warm, humid conditions and only slightly cooler winter temperatures. The most significant factor in these orchids' cultivation is the humidity that is required. Tropical areas such as East, Central and South America boast many beautiful orchids that occur there naturally. They include the Phalaenopsis (or the moth orchid as is it more popularly known as) and the lady slipper orchid. Cattleya orchids, the Cattleya alliance and its intergeneric hybrid orchid partners; and Phragmipedium orchids are also increasing in popularity amongst orchid collectors and cultivators. The Phragmipedium orchids come in various types. These types are the shorter-petalled group, the long-petalled group, and miniature green-flowered and of course the Phragmipedium schlimii.

And we also need to mention the Catasetum orchid, the Vanda orchidt and the many varieties and hybrids of Vandaceous orchids, the Ascocenda, Angraecum and Aerangis orchids as well as the Calanthe orchid also reside under this group of orchids.

Cultivars and Hybrids

Orchids are very complex flowers due to the many different characteristics that have been developed by orchid cultivators. This has a very complex nomenclature consequence. Interpreting orchid named is thus quite important if you have ambitions of becoming a serious orchid collector or cultivator or even an orchid grower. Within an orchid species, any one orchid plant may exhibit features that make it unique within that species. It can be either in size of color. These differences within a species are known as varieties or forms and are usually denoted as follows:

Dendrobium nobile pendulum where the genus name is Dendrobium, the species name describes the orchid flower as nobile and the variety is given as pendulum meaning free swinging.

The word Cultivar is a combination of cultivated and variety and means that the plant has been vegetatively propagated through dividing or cloning, rather than from seed to produce a genetically unique orchid plant. Within a cultivar all the offspring are genetically identical. All cultivar names are controlled and regulated by the ICNCP. When a cultivar is named, the customary Botanical name is used and the cultivar name is added to it. For example Phalaenopsis equestris 'Candor Violette', FCC/AOS (The FCC/AOS indicates the fact that the plant has been awarded a First Class Certificate by the American Orchid Society.)

A Hybrid on the other hand is a cross between genetically different orchid plants. Orchid hybrids are identified by a grex. Orchid hybrids, when produced from seed and regardless of variations or form or color share a common lineage and thus are classified as members of the same grex. This in essence means hybrids that have the same parentage. Cultivars may be given individual names, but the grex name will precede them when classified. For example Phalaenopsis HiLo Lip 'Candor Violette', where the grex name is HiLo Lip.

For classification purposes and to understand the names of orchids around the world it is best to remember the following points:

The genus name is started with a capital letter. It can also be abbreviated as in Dendrobium amethystoglossum or Den. Amethystoglossum.
Species and variety names are always in lower case.
Genus, species, and variety names are always in italics.
Variety or form is written as 'var.' or 'forma' in Roman typeface.
Grex names are written in Roman typeface with initial capitalization.
Cultivar names are also written in Roman typeface, with initial capitalization, and enclosed in single quotation marks.
Awards are abbreviated and appear in capital letters.

Caring for Orchids

Growing orchids

One of the main considerations that should be taken into account when deciding on cultivating orchids is that the conditions that you can offer the orchids must approximately match their natural habitat. You may take extraordinary measures to keep your orchid plants alive and it will still refrain from thriving if the environment that you can offer the orchid does not match to its natural habitat. Make a practical choice and you will enjoy success; and a practical choice starts with choosing a type of orchid that is suited to your environment and your local climate. Factors such as temperature, light, ventilation, heating and humidity all need to be taken into account. Then, to prolong the life of your orchids, you need to provide your orchids with optimal care that is specific to its needs.

Buying orchids

Nowadays most types of orchids are available from many outlets, garden centers and nurseries, even some supermarkets stock them from time to time. You will also find that you may be able to purchase orchids from specialist nurseries and orchid societies and at shows. Each of these venues of purchase has advantages and disadvantages. It is up to you to ensure that you buy what is the most appropriate orchid to suit the conditions that you can offer the orchid.

Say you decide to purchase an orchid from a general retailer, make sure to inspect it closely. Do ask when the orchid arrived at the store. (The orchid might have reached to retailer in a good condition, but due to the non-specialist nature of the general retailer the orchid might have been treated improperly throughout its shelf-life at the retailer.) The general retailer will most likely have the orchid tagged to identify the type of orchid. But it will be up to you to do independent research if you want to know more about the orchid.

Say you decide to purchase your orchid plants from a garden center. This is a slightly better choice. The garden center may have special guests that visit the center and those guests may be specialist orchid growers. They will offer expert advice and give demonstrations on how to pot, repot and care for the orchid plants that they specialize in.

Specialist Orchid Nurseries are the best option. However, these are few and far between. At these orchid outlets you will find a wide selection of orchid plants to choose from and you can be confident that the plants have been properly maintained by the experts on those specific orchid species. At best you can be assured that experienced staff members will have taken care of the orchids. In many cases these specialist orchid nurseries offer free telephone services. What is more, the orchids that you purchase will have their full nomenclature on a tag – very handy if you intend exhibiting your orchid. Demonstrations and classes on orchid care are also at the order of the day at these specialist orchid nurseries.

Orchid shows also present the potential buyer with opportunities to purchase orchids. Local orchid experts and societies have a great deal of experience and a great wealth of knowledge and are in most cases always willing to help potential growers and society members. Many orchid societies have annual shows. At these shows you can get all the required information and all aspects of orchid selection, orchid care, orchid cultivation, equipment, orchid books and videos, etc.

Growing orchids in shade conditions to prolong orchid life

Even on the Internet, vendors offer various types of orchids for sale. As a new buyer one should be skeptical and even experienced buyers should heed some caution with this type of purchase.

Growing orchids

Temperature, light, ventilation, heating and humidity all play a vital role in the types of orchids which can be cultivated and whether it will thrive in a particular environment.

Temperature

There are basically three different types of orchids that can be cultivated based on their preferred climatic conditions. The basic temperature groupings reflect the lowest night-time temperature that the orchid is able to tolerate for prolonged periods. Staying on the maximum temperature level the orchid will obviously become stressed.

Cool-climate Orchids originate from the cool mountain areas where the average temperature is somewhat chilly, even in summer. The day-time temperature should range between 18°C and 27°C (i.e. 65-80°F) and the night-time temperature should range between 8°C and16°C (i.e. 52-60°F)

Moderate-climate Orchids come from more or less the same conditions, but they grow at a lower altitude than the cool-climate orchids. Their temperature range is as follows: Day-time temperature between 20°C and 24°C (i.e. 68-75°F) and night-time temperature 13°C and 16°C (i.e. 58-60°F).

Warm-climate Orchids are prevalent in the tropical and subtropical areas. They love a temperature that is consistently warm throughout the year and will tolerate only minor fluctuations between day and night temperatures. Minor fluctuations would be: day-time temperature of 24°C and 27°C (i.e. 75-80°F) and night-time temperatures of 18°C and 20°C (i.e. 65-68°F).

All orchids appreciate moderate temperature fluctuations and parts of the orchid life cycle depend on these fluctuations. As an orchid grower it is wise to be aware and to monitor minimum and maximum temperatures. Just remember, healthy growth can be inhibited if the orchid is exposed to extreme conditions for too long or too often.

In some areas it is not uncommon to experience sudden and dramatic midsummer heat waves. Orchids detest searing heat and you might need to take your orchid to a cooler location and provide plenty humidity.

In some areas some spring evenings can become quite cold and you may even need to shelter your orchids by placing it in an enclosed area.

Light

Of the most popular species of orchids, in fact most orchids come from environments where the sunlight can be quite intense (at the tree canopy level), but is filtered by thick plant growth lower down the trunk. When you choose the orchid plants that you want to cultivate, you need to remember that you need to position your orchid in relation to the windows in your home (if you intend having in indoor home garden). You also need to position the orchid according to the seasonal direction and intensity of the sunlight. Several hours of sunlight are a basic requirement for most plants, and it is no different in the case of orchids. You need to place your orchid in such a way so as to create the correct quality and intensity of light to suit your particular orchid.

There are a few species of orchids that are able to tolerate extended periods of direct sunlight. They are the Cattleya orchids, the Laelia orchids and the Vandaceous orchid. Most orchids however, prefer dappled or filtered sunlight. In your home garden this can be easily achieved by means of blinds or curtains. Alternatively you can make use of cool-white fluorescent tubes, hung directly above the plants.

If you have your orchids outdoors you will need to find the right spot. The right spot would be a shady location with gentle early morning or late afternoon light. Full midday sunlight would be too intense. Alternatively you can use shade-cloth to shelter you orchids.

Ventilation

Almost all types of orchids will flourish with good ventilation, but be careful not to place your orchid directly in line with a cold draught (window or air-conditioner draughts). A fresh breeze from an open window is ideal. (Tip: A small oscillating fan will keep an indoor atmosphere buoyant ). Just keep the air lively and avoid stale, still conditions. Free-flowing, gentle summer breezes are just great for orchids. Take care not the expose the orchid to strong gusts of wind.

Humidity

Most orchids thrive in humid conditions. If you happen to live in an area that has cold winters, then you must bear in mind that central heating quickly depletes moisture from the air. To counter the effects of central heating with regard to humidity, you can place a small humidifier in the growing area of the orchids. Bathrooms are great humid spots for growing orchids.

If you happen to live in a very, hot and dry environment, then you will need to mist your orchids on a regular basis. If you have a large collection of orchids you may even think of investing in a wet-pad evaporative cooler.

In summer you will need to water your orchid more frequently, whether they are kept outdoors or indoors. Misting is important in both locations.

A recommended care and maintenance routine

Morning: – check all orchids and provide them with water if necessary.
Mid-morning: – spray greenhouse floors.
Midday: – mist the orchids if necessary (especially on those ultra-hot days.)
Mid-afternoon: – mist again.
Late afternoon: – check all orchids to ensure that there is no water left on any of their leaves from earlier watering.
Weekly: – add orchid fertilizer as required. Check for any pests and diseases and treat accordingly. Stake all emerging flower stems.

Pests and Diseases in orchids

It does not matter where you cultivate your orchids, indoors, outdoors, in pots, in a climatically controlled greenhouse environment, you will at some stage need to deal with pests and diseases. There is nothing as devastating as when you wake up one morning to find that the orchid that you lovingly tended to for months and could not wait to see the flowers has been slug-attacked, or a mouse has eaten the pollen, or mealy bugs attacking the new growth on orchid. Prevention is often better than cure and will go a long way in prolonging the life of your orchid as well as its blooming period. As a first step it would be best practice to:

Buy orchids from a reputable nursery or garden center. (Carefully grown plants are usually resistant to bacterial and fungal diseases and most likely free of pests.)
Where possible, place newly purchased orchids in a quarantine area before integration with the rest of your collection. (Or at least apart from your existing collection.) Until you are confident that the new plants are disease and pest free.

The common pests

Ants: Ants usually indicates the presence of aphids on orchids. Ants feed on the honeydew that is secreted by aphids. Furthermore they transfer scale from one plant to the other, they make nests in pots which breaks down the compost and prevent proper aeration. Make use of an appropriate organic insecticide and treat the entire plant.

Aphids: Aphids can be green, black, brown and even orange. They multiply rapidly in warm, dry weather and also attract ants with their honeydew secretions. The honeydew secretions also result in sooty mould. With minor aphid infestation you can spray aphids with a jet of tepid water or wash the infected areas of the plant by immersing it in a solution of insecticidal soap. For a serious infestation you may even resort to a general insecticide. (Tip: Check regularly for these pests can be quite persistent.)

False Spider Mite: These are slightly smaller than red spider mites and make their presence known by the silvery colored pitting that one can see on the top and underside of leaves. You can mist the top and underside of the leaves. You can also clean the affected leaves with insecticidal soap and water to kill adult mites. Or you could use a miticide. (Tip: Repeat the treatment every ten days to kill any eggs to prevent it from recurring.)

Leaf Hopper: These are tiny, white, sap-sucking flies that usually stay on the underside of leaves, flowers and especially new growth. The best counter for these pests is those sticky fly-traps or use an appropriate insecticide.

Leaf Miner: These are little grubs that is responsible for spreading virus-related disease that destroy leaves and stems of orchids. You should cut away any damaged stems and apply a systemic insecticide.

Mealy Bugs: This is a very common orchid pest. They are little oval shaped, grey-whitish fluffy-looking insects. They belong to the sucking insects that are often encountered on the underside of leaves and new growth. They even attack the orchid flower. Like aphids they also secrete honeydew which causes sooty mould on the orchid leaves. Make use of a cotton swab and clean the affected areas of the orchid with a mild liquid detergent or insecticidal soap to remove the adult mealy bugs in case of minor infestations. They are quite persistent and you might even find that you need to apply drastic measures in cases of bad infestations. (Drastic measures could include cutting off an affected orchid flower if necessary.)

Mollusks: Snails and slugs are possibly the most common pests in this category. They favor seedlings and soft foliage plants; they even eat through root tips, flower buds and pseudobulbs of orchids. Since they are nocturnal their movements can be tracked by the silvery slimy track that they leave behind. You need to be vigilant. The best methods to counter these little pests are organic control – lure them to a feed in a saucer of beer or under a lettuce leaf, collect them by hand in the morning. You could opt for commercial slug and snail pellets, but this can be nasty to curious pets.

Red Spider Mite: This is another common orchid pest and likes to attack Cymbidium orchids and the Lyscastesorchids. Red spider mite is hardly visible to the human eye, but evidence can be seen in the web-like film on the underside of leaves. They are sap-sucking insects and destroy leaf cells. This result in the orchid leaves yellowing and dying. Mist the tops and undersides of orchid leaves regularly and prevent infestations. Use the same countering measures as for the false spider mite.

Rodents: Rats and mice can be very destructive as they enjoy eating the pollen of the orchid flower. They scamper up the stems to reach the pollen and thus shorten the orchid flower’s life. Make use of commercial poison and set traps for these critters.

Scale insects: These come in many varieties that attack orchids. Scale insects are usually quite mobile when young while the adult scale insects tend to rest on the underside of leaves or beneath the orchid leaf sheaths, either individually or in colonies. They are basically sap-sucking insects that leave yellow patches on the orchid leaves and also secrete honeydew which result in sooty mould. Ants can also be lured by these secretions. Make use of a soft brush and insecticidal soap and water to remove scale. Take care not to damage leaves. You can also make use of a 50:50 solution of water and denatured alcohol. With serious infestation you might have to repeat the treatment and use systemic application of organic insecticide.

Thrips: These are tiny winged insects. Grayish in color and they usually settle on the underside of leaves. They tend to chew up the orchid, scraping the orchid leaf surface for sap and thus causing scarring and discoloration. Make use of the appropriate organic insecticide to fight them off.

Weevils: They are hard-bodied beetles with a dull coloration. They chew into the soft tissue areas of the orchid plant. Weevil and caterpillar damage is rather similar. You should spray or dust the orchid with the appropriate insecticide.

The common diseases

Basal rot / damping off: This is a fungal disease that results in the withering of the orchid stems, especially young seedlings. Basal rot is usually a consequence of: failing to use clean pots or potting mix, overcrowding, or over-watering. You must apply fungicide to the infected orchids, repot them, reduce watering, and increase ventilation to alleviate symptoms of Basal rot.

Bacterial brown spot: This disease is a quick spreader and appears as a brown, watery blister on orchid leaves. It can kill orchids when the infection manages to reach the crown. The bacterial brown spot disease thrives in cold, wet conditions and develops when orchid leaves are allowed to remain wet. The most vulnerable orchid species is the Phalaenopsis orchid. The best remedy is to isolate the affected orchid and remove all affected leaves using a sterilized cutting tool. Spray the orchid with an appropriate bactericide. (Tip: Follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter.) You should also move the affected orchid to a drier environment until you have the disease under control.

Brown rot: This disease manifests itself as a small brown spot on an orchid leave that grows large very quickly. Another symptom of brown rot infestation is the spice odor that infected orchids emit. Brown rot also has the ability to kill the orchid if it is allowed to reach the crown. The most vulnerable orchid species is the Paphiopedilum orchid. You can use the same treatment as for bacterial brown spot. (Tip: What also helps is a good dusting of cinnamon powder.)

Black rot: This specific type of disease affects the whole orchid plant. It manifests its appearance by the infected area turning black and watery. Over-watering is the main cause of black rot. The most vulnerable orchid species is the Cattleya orchids. You should remove all affected parts of the affected orchid. Spray with the appropriate fungicide and avoid over-watering.

Root rot: This disease is a result of fungal infection to the orchid roots. Orchids will manifest a root rot problem by showing a decline in health and the roots will turn brown. A main cause for root rot is over-watering the orchid and decayed potting mix, and even poor aeration. Make use of a sterilized cutting tool to remove all dead tissue, repot the orchid in a clean pot with fresh potting soil and treat with the recommended fungicide. Most of all avoid over-watering.

Leaf Spotting: This is an unattractive, but benign fungus that appears as small brown spots, sometimes black spots, on orchid leaves. Most orchid species are vulnerable to this disease. Make use of a recommended fungicide and spray the orchid following the instructions closely. Provide optimal growth environment for your orchids.

The common viruses

Sooty mould: This is a soft, black fungal growth that results from the honeydew secretions of aphids, mealy bugs and scale insects on orchids. Sooty mould reduces the amount of light that should reach the leaves and results in the ultimate deterioration of the orchid. You need to wash the orchid leaves with a soapy solution, or make use of a 50:50 solution of water and denatured alcohol. Try to get rid of the cause by getting rid of the pest that secretes the honeydew.

Cymbidium mosaic: This is a very common orchid virus that appears as a dark, sunken patch or streak on orchid leaves. The plants will continue to grow, but will be lacking in vigor, and may even affect other orchids. The best treatment would be to prevent the disease from spreading and destroy the affected plants.

Tobacco mosaic and yellow bean mosaic: Symptoms of these viruses are: orchid leaves becoming mottled with irregular patches of yellow and green, the orchid flower exhibiting streaky, dark coloration. At risk most are Cymbidium orchids and Masdevallia orchids. One answer: Destroy the affected orchid.

Odontoglossum ringspot virus: This virus appears as round blemishes on orchid leaves. These blemishes are usually concentric circles and eventually affect the orchid flowers which will appear deformed. One answer: Destroy the affected orchid.

Preventing orchid pests and diseases

Prevention is better than cure: Prevent disease in your orchid.
Be vigilant. Check on a regular basis for any visible sign of pest and disease infestation.
Maintain a clean, well-balanced growing environment.
Buy only healthy, quality plants from a reputable source.
Quarantine all new plants for a minimum of two weeks before integrating it with an existing collection.
Use only sterilized cutting tools.
Only reuse pots that have been disinfected with a bleach solution.
Do not reuse compost or potting soil.
Do not water an orchid with the runoff of another.

Tips for using insecticides

Select the appropriate insecticide or pesticide for the specific affliction the orchid is suffering.
Read the manufacturer's instructions and be sure to mix and apply the products precisely according to the instructions.
Apply insecticide in moderate temperatures to avoid damage to the orchid.
Keep pets and children away from the area while spraying.
Make use of gloves and a face mask as well as goggles when applying spray.
Wash any part of your shin thoroughly if it came into contact with the insecticide solution.
Safely dispose of all unused mixture.
Store insecticide out of reach of children and under lock and key.

Providing a controlled environment

When you have only a few orchids, the issue of controlling the environment is not such a big concern. As your collection grows, it becomes a necessity. Another factor that will influence your choice of the type of controlled environment is the types of orchids you grow, whether it is a single genus of many. You can make use of sunrooms or conservatories, shade house, lath house or even a polythene tunnel.

Growing Ansellia africana orchids

The African Ansellia is commonly known as the Leopard Orchid. It is not difficult to see the rationale behind the common name when one takes a look at the Ansellia africana orchid, named in honor of John Ansell who discovered the first specimens when he embarked on an expedition on the Niger river. Some orchid enthusiasts claim that there is only one species of Ansellia africana that can be described as a monotypic genus, but the Leopard Orchid is actually a very complex group of species that all share a common growth structure and flower bearing habit. The other names that are associated with the Ansellia africana are as follows: Luipaardorchidee (Dutch), Luiperdorgidee(Afrikaans); Imfeyenkawu (Zulu).

Another odd, but wonderful characteristic of the Ansellia africanaorchid also earned it an odd name, Trash Basket Orchid. That characteristic is the Ansellia africana’s ability, due to its epiphytic nature, to create a makeshift container of its aerial roots to not just catch but also to digest falling leaf litter and use it as nutrients.

The Ansellia africana orchid can be found most everywhere in Africa, countries such as South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, Angola, Malawi, Mozambique, Uganda, Kenya, Burundi, Ruanda, Sudan, Tanzania, Nigeria, Cameroun, The Democratic republic of Congo, Gabon and many others all boast with their very own Ansellia africana orchids where the natural habitat of these plants can be found alongside rivers and coasts in the canopies of trees.

The Ansellia africana is a huge epiphyte that grows in clumps. In nature you can find them attached to tree branches by their epiphytic aerial roots that resemble canes, showing off spectacularly when the Ansellia africanais in bloom. These aerial roots can become very thick and resembles rope like structures that will anchor the orchid plant onto the substrate. This orchid uses its ‘other' aerial roots, pointing upwards, making them appear like a trash basket (to catch organic debris) around its pseudobulbs. Each of these pseudobulbs can carry up to 8 leaves which in turn bears the flowers. The organic debris serves as nutrients for the orchid when it grows in its natural habitat. These aerial roots look different from the ones used to anchor the orchid plant. In its natural habitat the Ansellia africana can live and thrive for a long, long time, become huge plants with spectacular masses of flowers.

Flowering time for the Ansellia africana orchid is during the summer months. The flowers can last for between two and three months. Flowers are borne on branching sprays and are yellow and sometimes even green with typical red/brown or maroon leopard spots. Sometime the dark leopard spots may seem to take over the flower, but even in such cases labellum will always remain yellow. You will be able to enjoy the wonderful ‘spring forest’ like fragrance of your orchids more and more as your orchid seasons and matures.

Cultivation

Cultivating Ansellia africana orchids can happen in two ways:

You can either grow your Ansellia africana orchid from seed or using cuttings from the pseudobulb. When making use of seeds: the seeds originate from the pods. The pods take approximately thirteen to fifteen months to ripen. Thereafter you need dry out or desiccate the seeds after the seedpod has matured. This is done to imitate the seasonal dry periods that the Ansellia africana experiences in its natural habitat.

Germinate these Ansellia seeds in a suitable medium. This may take up to fourteen weeks. Thereafter you may transplant your seedlings in flasks. Take care of your Ansellia africana seedling in their flasks for approximately a year. Then start to harden off the plants in different setups. (TIP: in the hardening off phase be prepared to lose some plants as this is the riskiest part of cultivating Ansellia africana.)

Ansellia africana can also be cultivated by cutting through the rhizome that connects the pseudobulbs. (TIP: Make use of a clean, sterilized knife when cutting through your orchid’s rhizome.) You may also take this opportunity to cut away dead roots. These will appear soft and papery. The real large plants can be split into several sections. Make sure that you cut the sections in such a fashion that each Ansellia africana section will have at least three pseudobulbs. Only split the Ansellia africana when new growth becomes visible at the base of the orchid plant.

Ansellia africana has a sympodial growth habit. The pseudobulbs will keep its leaves for a couple of years before losing it. Flowers are carried from the top of the most recently matured pseudobulbs between the top two leaves.